Dolphin Standard Controller Not Reading Gamecube Controller
The GameCube controller saw ii major redesigns of its internals. They are denoted as T1, T2, and T3, which mainly represents the different stick mechanisms, or stickboxes, as information technology's the nigh of import component of the controller. I will too document the different internals, and point out small differences in the shells and other molded plastic parts.
Table of Contents
- PCB Variants
- Stickboxes
- Potentiometers
- Triggers
- Buttons and Sticks
- Cables
- Shells and Misc.
- Resources and Traces
1. PCB Variants
23-0899 (T1)
Also called "Legacy T1", this board was produced for the launch of the GameCube, but was phased out very speedily. By 2002, it was gone. It boasts a bright green back side and a detachable cablevision for the C-stick lath. It also comes with a unique purple trigger/rumble motor bracket, and uses T1 stickboxes.
23-0899B (T1)
I've never actually seen this board, so while I'one thousand not sure it exists, it follows the logical revisions blueprint. Information technology might be rare, I'll update here if I find it.
23-0899C (T1)
Pretty much the same lath as the first one, but with a painted back and a black trigger/rumble motor bracket. Very rare, thanks to Kubbymo for finding ane and sending me a picture!
Y'all might detect a circled "3" adjacent to the Mitsumi logo on the left, this is near likely a automobile or manufacturing plant number, then not too important.
23-0899D (T1)
Probably the virtually common T1 board, this one boasts a few differences from the previous boards. Firstly, the T1 stickboxes are a dissimilar color (See the stickboxes section). A small electrical circuit was added to the correct of the chief chip on this 1, with a slot for a capacitor that is actually unused. I do accept a Panasonic Q controller that uses this slot, but for the most I've seen it's empty.
23-0899E (T2)
A lot of changes here. Showtime of all, this is the outset revision with the upgraded T2 stickboxes, and as well the C-stick board, which is now revision B (23-0900B). The connector for the C-stick board is now a unproblematic ribbon cable soldered directly onto the board. The oscillator, which was a modest silver chip before, is at present a huge blue blob thing. Some other slot for a capacitor was also added to the summit left, unused too. This is the virtually common T2 board.
23-1167A (T2)
A few changes here too. The actress, unused capacitor slots are at present removed, and the part number changed from its usual 23-0899 to 23-1167. This is the merely variant of this number that was made. You might also notice the strange trigger/rumble motor bracket; it tin can be seen on both T2 variants and this board also comes with the standard bracket. For more than information, come across the triggers section.
CFS8280-500010-01 (T3)
The biggest upgrade so far, Mitsumi outsourced the production of the boards to Sanyo, and they had to source their own stick mechanisms because they didn't take access to the Mitsumi ones. We ended up with those high quality, all plastic stickboxes that are screwed onto the board. The Mitsumi logo is no longer here, but you can come across the Sanyo logo on the C-stick board on the top left. The connector cable is dorsum in a slightly different shape as well. This board is pretty rare, but seen in "Made in Japan" stamped controllers and the "no CE dot" (Run into the stamps guide for more info).
CFS8280-500010-02 (T3)
The almost mutual of the T3 boards. The simply deviation here is the cable connecting the C-stick lath to the primary board; back to the ribbon cablevision, with an indicator for the ground this time.
CFS8280-500020-00 E4 (T3)
The final board revision still produced as of the latest Smash Ultimate GameCube controller. Probably made during the transition from Sanyo to EPC, which not much is known about. See my web log post about it for more data. Information technology is known to have much stiffer stickbox springs than the previous revisions, and stiffer buttons overall.
C-stick and Triggers
The C-stick and trigger boards, while much smaller, also saw some revisions. I will list them here. If y'all wish to know in which controllers they were included, see my full drove documentation canvas.
C-Stick
- 23-0900
- 23-0900B
- CFS8280-510010-01
- CFS8280-510020-00
Triggers
- 23-0901
- CFS8280-520010-00
- CFS8280-520020-00
2. Stickboxes
T1: Metal casing and ABS plastic moving parts, soldered onto the lath. Easy to place by its darker colors and vertical top bracket. Information technology gets loose really fast. There are 4 variants; on the left are the master sticks and on the right are the c-sticks. The top row is the starting time version and the bottom row is the 2nd version.
Manufactured by Mitsumi.
T2: Metal casing and white plastic moving parts, soldered onto the board. Has an horizontal pinnacle subclass and a much ameliorate design than its predecessor. It is too compatible with T1 boards and is a highly recommended upgrade. Those tin can as well be plant in Wii Nunchuks.
Manufactured by Mitsumi.
T3: Plastic casing and plastic moving parts, screwed onto the board. This stickbox is not compatible with T1 or T2 boards. Those tin also be institute in Wii Nunchuks and Wii Classic and Classic Pro controllers, and also in the Hori and Jesnet third political party GameCube controllers.
Manufactured by Mitsumi, used externally.
iii. Potentiometers
Here's a catalogue of the Noble potentiometers, including the ones used in the GameCube controller (XV09912PHNSL-0B30K and XVJ09-4R-0B30K): PDF Document
On the left, we have the Matsushita (Panasonic) potentiometers, by and large used in the early controllers, and on the right nosotros accept the Noble potentiometers, the almost mutual. They're both some of the highest quality potentiometers on the market. They connect to the side of the stickbox and read the input given by the histrion on the X and Y axis. They are both compatible with all the stickbox variants.
Here are the 4 different trigger slider potentiometers I've found. The two elevation ones are from Matsushita (Panasonic), lesser left is from Alps and bottom right is from Noble. The top two are found in the early controllers while the bottom right is plant from T2 upwardly, with some T3s having the all black slider. Encounter my full collection documentation sheet for the raw information.
4. Triggers
The layout for the trigger's mechanism stayed pretty much the same since the starting time, with only one foreign exception. To brand information technology simpler, I will post a picture of the mechanism and so point out some differences you may encounter.
1 matter you might notice is this diagonal metal bracket. Very common in the early controller but phased out as of the Blast 4 controller production. Frequently missing from controllers, its presence was really inconsistent overall. Its purpose is also unknown, equally information technology is detrimental to the trigger operation every bit information technology creates a lot of friction. I suggest removing them entirely.
The mechanism is secured past a plate that screws onto the shell. T3 controllers use a different left plate to allow enough infinite for the actress screw from the stickbox to fit. This is the nearly common reason why some controllers won't close properly when changing the shell – y'all have to switch the plate onto the new back crush. See the lower plate, which has a larger indent in information technology.
On controllers that have a purple trigger/rumble motor subclass, you lot can find those grey trigger parts. So the "Legacy T1" and all the Panasonic Q controllers. They're exactly the same as standard, just grayness instead of blackness.
A brief oddity exclusive to the T2, at that place were those strange screw-less trigger parts with the trigger plates fused to the trigger/rumble motor bracket. They piece of work just as fine as the standard design, simply information technology is unknown why they came to be and why the design wasn't kept through the production of the T3.
5. Buttons and Sticks
While in that location'south non much to say here, there's a few differences to note about the buttons and sticks. To avoid an optical illusion that would make lighter-colored controllers wait like they have darker buttons, Nintendo fitted them with a lighter fix. From left to correct, the Grey Wavebird with the whitest set, in the center the White/Boom 4 White and on the correct we accept the standard set of buttons. Besides funny to note that the Wavebird'southward start push is slightly taller than usual.
There are iii different casts of the stick cap. I idea it would be fun to include them, without the rubber on.
The GCC likewise has different pads for the ABXY face buttons. The straight ane, which has a stiffer printing, is mostly constitute on T3 controllers while the ridged ones are on T1 and T2 and they are much smoother. The pads from the Boom-themed controllers have a noticeably stiffer press to them compared to the standard T3. Thanks to Battle Beaver Community for the diagrams!
The Z push is dissimilar from the other buttons as it uses a tactile switch instead or the usual rubber dome. The push is wedged between both trounce halves on some kind of hinge. There is a small metal plate that acts equally a spring, and when pressed it clicks on a sideways switch. The bound can be removed easily with a pair of pliers.
6. Cables
The beefcake of the cable is pretty unproblematic. Y'all've got the wires in the heart, a copper shielding to block electrical interference and and then a rubber sleeve. It is soldered onto the board, and on the other end yous've got the plug. Here's a guide to remove the plug: https://youtu.exist/TFveth_Jg60
Here'southward a few schematics of the wiring:
3.3V 0.55A voltage supply
5V 1.5A voltage supply
3.3V data
Data Ground
White is power ground (rumble)
Basis
Upwardly until 2008, all the cables were black and 2m (half dozen.5ft) long. The White 2008 controller introduced a longer white cablevision that is 3m (9.8ft) long. The Sm4sh and Ultimate controllers also share this longer cablevision.
7. Shells and Misc.
The shell, or the casing, also saw some small revisions over time. From the jump from the T2 to the T3 controller, some actress "bones" were added to the dorsum vanquish to reinforce the shape. Around the C-stick and D-pad parts, and on the back, separating the triggers from the rumble area.
The Smash 4 and Smash Ultimate controllers received a completely new mold for their shells, following the same design than the T3 shells. The Smash 4 shell had fitting problems, where the seams near the shoulder buttons were mismatched by about half a millimetre, which was later stock-still on the Blast Ultimate controllers.
Both aureate and argent tri-fly screw sets can exist constitute securing the shells closed. They are both visible on nearly every variant, except for the White 08 onward, where every screw is silver. For more info, see the total documentation of my drove.
Crystal Whites exclusively have gold screws, while Pearl Whites merely accept silvery screws. This is the easiest way to tell them autonomously. For more info, encounter my "Tracking Down a Crystal White GameCube Controller" blog post.
Some very early T1 controllers tin also be seen with a single phillips screw, located exclusively on the correct hand side in the center, where the stamp is located. Those can likewise exist either golden or silver, and are nearly probable overstock from the N64 days.
8. Resource and Traces
Resources
- Parts list from the FCC for the WaveBird: Website
- Noble potentiometers catalogue: PDF Document
- Total documentation of my collection: Document
- Nintendo Gamecube Controller Protocol: Website
- Blast Input Maps and Profiles: Document
Traces
- ★ Fires' Complete Circuit Board Guide: Website
- Fires' T3 PCB Traces: Album
- Kadano'due south T3 PCB Traces: Picture
- RDC's T3 Raw PCB Traces: Forums
- Doge's T1 – T2 Raw PCB Traces: Album
Source: https://gccontrollerlibrary.com/guides/gamecube-controller-internals-guide/
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